1 Day Ago
|
? #6 |
|
? DIYMA Novice Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: TN Posts: 363 Thanks: 6 Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts |
DIY and save big $$$.. if you can find Kendall Synthetic for like 4-5 a quart. for filters if own a Euro, MJMAutohaus or ECS Tuning has then in 1,5,10pk for cheap.. |
|
Jose -06 Titan CC SE -See you in the lanes next year |
|
?
|
|
|
1 Day Ago
|
? #10 |
|
? DIYMA Loyalist Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bakersfield Posts: 2,746 Thanks: 85 Thanked 185 Times in 159 Posts |
I would never ever ever let someone change my oil. Ive seen way too many stripped drain plugs, filter gasket blown out because they didn't remove the old one, forgot to fill the engine, etc. I use a true group V ester oil, Redline. Most of the " full synthetic" oils like most of Mobil One with the exceptuon of two of their oils are actually a blend of grpIV syn and dino or grp III which is non synthetic but by law can be called synthetic. Theres a difference in performance (hths, oxidation resistance, viscosity loss, high temp stability, etc) when going from a grpIII dino to a grpIV PAO syn. But there is a huge difference when going from a grpIV to a grpV POE ester oil. The ester oils outperform "normal" syns by a huge margin in the categories I mentioned plus the have a naturally higher viscosity index (VI) without viscosity index improvers (VII) which are bad. They're a natural cleaner, they won't bake off and leave deposits in the ring land area or turbo center section, they are very polar meaning they cling to metal and under harsh race conditions where a normal syn will lose nearly 30% of its viscosity, an ester rypically loses 1% under the same conditions. The Redline brand uses a healthy dose of moly and ZDDP as well for friction and wear reduction. My take on the oil change interval is this. Oils of today are great compared to the old days. Cars are fuel injected using feedback control, many using widebands for precise fuel metering, ignition systems are better and more precise with the help of the ECU. All of this means less fuel dilution and combustion byproducts getting into the oil. Couple fuel injection and better oils, you can definitely go much longer on your oci today than yesterday. But.... you still have the contaminate load from combustion and even the best filters are not going to filter a lot of this stuff. Thats why I won't go over 5,000 miles. Thats playing it safe, double that mileage wouldn't hurt but I usually hit a year before the mileage limit anyway. Of coirse this varies greatly. If you do mostly short trips on a cold climate, 3,000 miles would be a good oci. Pure freeway with a good oil and 10,000 is not bad. Contaminate load from combustion is a big reason why a transmission can typically go 30,000+ miles instead of the 3,000-10,000 of an engine. I run Redline 5w-30 in the TL and a Royal Purple filter which is only one of two filters that I'm aware of for automotive use that uses a synthetic glass media which gives both better filtration AND flow. Usually you're limited to one or the othef. I'm sure there are a ton of spelling errors, this phone makes typing painful. Theres a lot more detail to be mentioned but this is painfully slow. I'll edit when I get to a computer. |
|
'84 GN 10.60@ 127mph. Infinity 3.5 coaxials and a cheap Sony HU.  '06 TL. Front stage- Dynaudio 102, 430, 182.... AE IB15s....JL HD600/4, HD900/5....MS8....SecondSkin.... Coming very soon, a trio of Dyn 1200 subs, 110 tweeters, JL HD 1200, another JL HD 600/4, and PS8. |
|
|
?
|
|
|
23 Hours Ago
|
? #16 |
|
? DIYMA Regular Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Atlanta Posts: 624 Thanks: 17 Thanked 65 Times in 42 Posts |
Wow, some of you go 5-10k without changing oil? Especially non synthetic? No car these days should be run on anything BUT synthetic. I do 95% highway driving, warm up the car every time, and I regularly get oil changed at 3-3.5k MAX. Without a doubt there are cars that can surpass the average time and distance without a fresh change, but for me personally, I want to keep my car, and the original 3800, going for decades. If you have a Honda or Toyota I am sure that is the case but far from the majority of cars can or should consistently wait that long. I am going to take every precaution in keeping my engine running as smooth as butter for as long as possible. It's not expensive, it's not hard... there's no excuse. RP is overhyped. |
|
05 Monte Carlo - trunk install 2.0 freshly rebuilt 13 October. Next up, change something else! Audible Physics, Acoustic Elegance, Alpine, Beyma, Mosconi, Zapco Quote:
|
|
|
?
|
|
It's just as good as any other synthetic motor oil. I have had my oil changed only by people I know and most of the time I oversee it. Once I have my own driveway/garage to do it myself, I'll never visit a shop again. Too many underpaid mechanics who don't give a fuck anymore.
|
22 Hours Ago
|
? #17 | |
|
? DIYMA Loyalist Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bakersfield Posts: 2,746 Thanks: 85 Thanked 185 Times in 159 Posts |
Quote:
I would use a non syn before I would use any of RP's street oils and many of their off the shelf race oils. They clain hp and mpg improvements but you don't want to get improvements in the way they come from RP. Friction reduction is good. Viscosity reduction while retaining an adequate HTHS is fine. Designing an oil to sheer under high stress such as in a journal bearing or in a ring pack is wrong. You sacrifice wear for a small reduction in pumping losses and this is what RP does. I'll gladly give up that 3hp for better protection. A good ester oil can be thinner for better flow because it doesn't sheer or thin out when put under stress when you need it the most. I lol'd at the reference to top fuel. Theres nothing even remotely related to anything that goes in a street car or even 99% of the race cars in that oil. Flood even a good high performance oil with nitromethane and watch what happens. In fact, the last time I had ties and an inside line into top fuel, RP was a sponsor and while they might lead you to believe their oil was used, it absolutely was not used. The oil can might ne labeled as RP but thats not what was in it. Regardless, top fuel is as relevant as what oil you mix in your RC car. Again, I'm leaving out some important details because I don't have the time or patience to post from this phone. |
|
|
'84 GN 10.60@ 127mph. Infinity 3.5 coaxials and a cheap Sony HU. '06 TL. Front stage- Dynaudio 102, 430, 182.... AE IB15s....JL HD600/4, HD900/5....MS8....SecondSkin.... Coming very soon, a trio of Dyn 1200 subs, 110 tweeters, JL HD 1200, another JL HD 600/4, and PS8. |
||
|
?
|
|
|
21 Hours Ago
|
? #19 |
|
? DIYMA Loyalist Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bakersfield Posts: 2,746 Thanks: 85 Thanked 185 Times in 159 Posts |
I'm probably getting an iPhone 4s, I like the smallness and I'll never use half the features. Here's the problem, what facts have you presented? Here are some facts: All of these oils are labeled "synthetic 5W30"... Castrol Syntec 5W30: Mobil1 5W30: Pennzoil Platinum 5W30: Red Line 5W30: Royal Purple 5W30: RP doesn't like to publish HTHS numbers because they're so low, most $3 oils have a higher HTHS. As I said before, a low HTHS is one way to better mpg and a couple more hp but a higher HTHS is directly related to reduced engine wear, probably the single most important spec. From what I've gathered, RP has an HTHS of 2.7-2.8 which there is no excuse for. As I said, I would run just about any non syn oil over RP. Many European manufacturers spec a minimum HTHS figure and more manufacturers are going to this. As long as the kinematic viscosity is thin enough to flow well and thick enough that a minimum hot oil pressure is maintained, only the HTHS viscosity matters. This is how an oil will perform inside of a journal bearing or in a ring pack or between a cam lobe and lifter, not how it performs sitting in the pan. You can see from the specs that with Redline, the only ester base oil in the group, you get the flow of a 30wt but the HTHS of a good 40wt. More facts, here are the results of a test by GM. This was to understand the effects of HTHS on journal bearing wear. One engine used a high HTHS oil, one used a low HTHS oil. The rod bearings were weighed before the test, the engines were assembled and run on the dyno thorugh a simulated cycle. The engines were then disassembled and the bearings were weighed again. More weight loss means more wear. I hate BITOG but this is one of the few people that knows what he's talking about. HTHS - Bob Is The Oil Guy As I mentioned previously, an ester: Is more polar, sticking to metal parts better. A PAO synthetic must be mixed with some non syn grp III oil becaue by nature it's non polar. Has a much higher natural viscosity index. This means it thickens less when cold, thins less when hot and requires less of the evil viscosity index improvers. You're closer to the "ideal" viscosity at any temperature. Does not burn off and leave deposits at any temperature encountered in an IC engine. Pistons come out looking brand new, no carbon in the ring land area. Is a natural cleaner. Far fewer detergents are needed because the ester itself cleans, giving you a better cleaning oil and leaving more room for oil, less for detergents. Has a higher HTHS number for a given kinematic viscosity giving better flow and better protection. Does not temporarily or permanently sheer under extended high rpm, high hp runs. In the case of the Redline brand, you get a healthy dose of moly and ZDDP. I've torn down several engines run on RP, some just a mild smallblock, not more than 400hp and after 50,000 miles it has much worse than expected wear. I've seen a couple 700-900hp applications and let's just say it was ugly. I wouldn't call it a good oil because an engine showed low wear on a 20w-50 with very low miles. If it works for you, great. But it's not something I would run in my weak ass TL much less anything with power. As to the rest, I've always been against the guys that go over 10,000 miles on an OCI but 2,500 miles is just wasteful. The oil does not keep an engine running smooth. The oil has pretty much zero effect on how smoothly an engine runs. You need to look at the top end for that, the engine management, fuel system, etc. As long as the oil keeps wear down and compression remains ok, that's the oil's only involvement in how smoothly it runs. I'm completley OCD and I can't even change my oil that often. Long trips will greatly extend how long you can go on an interval. How far you can go on an OCI in not manufacturer based. It's engine specific and more importantly the driving conditions (cold climate, short trips, long idle) shorten the OCI. The Buick 3.8L is pretty easy on the oil but any engine with a timing chain instead of a timing belt is a little harder on the oil. The biggest issue with the 3800 is to make sure the intake manifold gasket is not leaking into the oil. |
|
'84 GN 10.60@ 127mph. Infinity 3.5 coaxials and a cheap Sony HU. '06 TL. Front stage- Dynaudio 102, 430, 182.... AE IB15s....JL HD600/4, HD900/5....MS8....SecondSkin.... Coming very soon, a trio of Dyn 1200 subs, 110 tweeters, JL HD 1200, another JL HD 600/4, and PS8. |
|
|
?
|
|
|
21 Hours Ago
|
? #21 | |
|
? DIYMA Regular Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Atlanta Posts: 624 Thanks: 17 Thanked 65 Times in 42 Posts |
Quote:
There are so few cars with timing chains as opposed to belts. That said I did see a whole belt sitting in the middle of the freeway the other day... The 3800 intake gasket issue was recalled from 00-04 and in 05 it was a nonissue, for Monte Carlos at least. I am well aware of it, but I don't have to worry. Another known issue with my car is that the oil pan gasket leaks - as mine is right now - but not very much at the moment. You aren't stressing enough the importance of oil. It's the life blood of your entire vehicle functioning properly. If you neglect it, you will have no choice but to replace your engine. Many other components inside the block that fail on their own time can simply be replaced. If you run dry you're fucked. If you fail to change your oil when it needs to be, the life expectancy of your vehicle plummets. I'll never say you can't get away with not changing it for 10k or years, but I will say that it's stupid. There's no excuse except laziness. I am also shocked at how many people do not let their engines warm up before driving, especially before short trips. We're not living in the days of carburetors anymore, I get that, but it still doesn't hurt. Maybe I'm just overprotective. |
|
|
05 Monte Carlo - trunk install 2.0 freshly rebuilt 13 October. Next up, change something else! Audible Physics, Acoustic Elegance, Alpine, Beyma, Mosconi, Zapco Quote:
|
||
|
?
|
|
|
21 Hours Ago
|
? #25 | |
|
? DIYMA Regular Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: denver Posts: 725 Thanks: 41 Thanked 50 Times in 47 Posts |
Quote:
|
|
|
BRUTE FORCE - IF IT DOESN'T WORK, YOU'RE JUST NOT USING ENOUGH ! |
||
?
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (2 members and 1 guests) | |
| mongar, sam3535 |
Source: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/off-topic/138151-quick-oil-change-places-can-blow-me.html
kendrick perkins steve jones emily maynard kola boof burmese python national signing day ferris bueller
কোন মন্তব্য নেই:
একটি মন্তব্য পোস্ট করুন